Cenote at Coba

After seminar this morning, a small group of us went to a cenote across the lake from our hotel. The cenote (pronounced see no tay) is an underground cave with water in it, which the Yucatec Maya called dzonot or ts'onot meaning "well". In ancient times, and even today, the Maya used cenotes for water storage but also for sacred purposes. Sometimes sacred rituals would be performed in or around the cenote, during which the Maya would make offerings of exotic items such as precious jades, obsidian flints and, occasionally, human sacrifices.

It's likely that the rituals associated with cenotes evolved because of Maya beliefs about the Underworld. Essentially the Maya believe that caves serve as entrances to this other realm, which symbolizes the cycle of life, death and rebirth. Thus the cenote opening is a natural icon in Maya sculpture, architecture and painting.

But there is a practical side as well, for cenotes are important to the Maya for water storage because there aren't any rivers and very few lakes in this region. Most of the soil is porous limestone, so water collection is a precious activity for survival. As a result, many of the Maya temple sites in the Yucatan are located adjacent to these cenotes. Coba, where we are, is no exception.

The cenote we went to was massive and deep, requiring us to take wooden steps from the surface into the cave. Our journey into the Underworld began at this modest thatched roof well-like structure. The man who took our 45 pesos per person ($4.50 US) said that there were 88 steps down to the platform at the bottom. 

 There was also this sign, cautioning us to download the steps. Since I did not have my computer with me at the time, I found these instructions somewhat challenging to heed.

 Once we downloaded the steps, we arrived at a large wooden platform fashioned like a boat dock jutting out over the water. There was one small hole at the top of the cave ceiling, and lots of stalactites hanging down in various lengths. Someone was burning copal, which is ancient incense for Maya rituals.

After cautiously apprising the situation, I decided I didn't want to miss this opportunity so I got in. The water was very clear and very deep. It was also somewhat cool, but refreshing to the skin. I floated on my back for a long time, just staring at the contours of the limestone ceiling above. There were shapes and designs in the rock, and water seeped through and showered down occasionally on the upturned face. The limestone rock acts as a natural filter for the water which is why it is so clean.

After floating and swimming for about an hour, we all got out of the water. Walking back up the 88 wooden steps, I realized how peaceful and relaxed I felt. It was a spiritual experience going into the Underworld, and once again I am amazed at the beauty and wisdom of the Maya.

My photos inside don't really do justice to the place but here they are.

The platform and entrance to the 88 steps

A blurry shot of the cenote wall

A stalactite on the ceiling