Last Night in London

Tomorrow* we leave London. Our last efforts at enjoying the city include a ride yesterday on the London Eye and a bit of a shopping spree in Covent Garden. The crowds were huge and the weather was hot. Indeed, while riding the Underground I spotted a newspaper headline which claimed 19 April 2018 was the hottest ever recorded in London since 1841.

Needless to say, we are feeling a bit of weather whiplash, what with the record cold winter in the Low Countries and now the record hot spring in England.

Weather challenges aside, this morning we headed out on foot toward the Charles Dickens Museum. Unfortunately before we arrived at 48 Doughty Street, we were witness to an elderly pedestrian who was struck by a car on Grays Inn Road. Happily the man was able to walk afterwards, which is about the best one can hope for under the circumstances.

After that sad adventure we finally made it to the museum. It was delightful.

According to a volunteer guide with whom we spoke, Dickens lived in this rented house on Doughty Street from 1837 - 1840. He also lived in two other London houses, both of which have since been torn down. Luckily this one was preserved by the neighbors in the 1920s when there was talk of demolishing all the houses on this street.

Some of the highlights of Dickens' life in this house include the birth of two of his sons, and he wrote three of his early works in this house.

The museum has done a nice job of collecting objects which were owned by Dickens, including a mahogany side board in the dining room and his writing desk in the study, along with letters and lithographs, and the author's dress suit from his meeting with the royal family.

Gad's Hill Scroll
Charles Dickens Museum, London

In the entrance hall of the museum, a framed image known as the Gad's Hill Scroll rests obsequiously against the wall. Apparently Dickens had it specially made and hung with pride in his home at Gad's Hill. There is a back story to the scroll which includes a reference both to Shakespeare and to Chaucer. In a nutshell, Dickens' home at Gad's Hill was the location of a scene from Shakespeare's Henry IV, Part I, one of the bard's more elaborate history plays.

In Henry IV, Falstaff is at Gad's Hill when he robs some of the pilgrims heading for Chaucer's Canterbury. This reference by Shakespeare about Dickens' home was a source of pride for Dickens. Indeed, he counted Shakespeare as one of the greatest sources of inspiration in his own storytelling, hence the scroll.

Of course, if you have been reading any of my recent posts, you will know that Chaucer has made some recurring appearances in my own journey, hence this interest in the scroll.

Today, Dickens' home at Gad's Hill is a school. A plaque graces one of its walls, commemorating the famous author who overcame life circumstances to live there. I think next time I'm in England, I'll have to make a visit.

* I began this blog post while still in London but only just now finished it in Dublin, Ireland.